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Transforming an IKEA IVAR into a dedicated TV cabinet
This guide explains how to adapt a ready-made shelving unit into a functional media cabinet with integrated drawer storage. It outlines a repeatable workflow for reusing original parts, adding structural extenders, and fitting a single drawer while preserving a cohesive aesthetic with updated interiors.
The project suits practitioners with basic carpentry skills and modest workshop resources. It emphasizes practical choices of materials, hardware and finishing steps that constrain cost while producing a polished result.
Coverage includes the principal assembly stages, essential tools and optional directions based on the number of IVAR units available and the desired cabinet depth. Expect to work with common carpentry tools, standard cabinet hardware and plywood for bespoke elements. References to extenders and drawer slides denote adaptable components chosen to match the cabinet’s final location and function.
Planning and preparation
Confirm measurements of the location where the cabinet will sit. Record width, depth and height to the nearest millimetre. Check floor and wall level to identify any shimming or cutting required.
Inventory existing components before buying new parts. If you possess multiple IVAR carcasses, consider reusing doors or drawer fronts for a uniform face. If you have only one carcass, plan for a plywood-faced drawer front to match the finish.
Assemble essential materials and tools. At minimum, you will need: two or more IVAR carcasses (or one carcass plus spare doors), layers of 18mm plywood and 12mm plywood for drawer boxes and faces, a wood top, drawer slides, and 170-degree hinges for wide-opening doors. Include suitable wall anchors for secure mounting and a primer-plus-paint system for the final finish. Add common tools: drill, jigsaw or circular saw, screwdrivers, clamps, a spirit level and measuring tape.
Match hardware and components to the cabinet’s intended use and location. Select drawer slides rated for the expected load. Choose hinges that allow full access to the drawer area if the cabinet will house audiovisual equipment. Where possible, buy hardware that shares the same screw patterns to reduce drilling and adjustment.
Constructing the cabinet body and drawer
Begin construction on a flat, stable surface. Assemble carcasses according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure squareness. Use clamps and a square to verify alignment before permanently fastening.
Prepare the drawer boxes from 12mm plywood for the sides and 18mm plywood for the base or face where extra strength is required. Cut parts slightly oversize and sand edges for a snug fit. Test-fit each drawer in its opening and adjust clearances to maintain even gaps around doors and drawer faces.
Install drawer slides following the manufacturer’s templates. Mark rail positions on both carcass and drawer to ensure parallel alignment. Secure the slides with the recommended screw type and length. Test each drawer through its full travel before finalising the installation.
Fit doors with 170-degree hinges to ensure wide opening and easy access to the drawer area. Pre-drill hinge mounting holes and use alignment shims if necessary to create consistent gaps. Check that doors close flush and operate without binding.
Reinforce the back of the assembled cabinet where it will be anchored to the wall. Use appropriate wall anchors and fixings for the wall type—masonry, plasterboard or timber studs. Position anchors into solid material and distribute load across multiple fixings to improve stability.
Prepare surfaces for finishing. Fill visible screw holes and gaps with a suitable filler, sand smooth, and apply a primer compatible with your paint system. Use edge banding or sealed edges on exposed plywood to prevent moisture ingress. Apply at least two coats of paint or finish, allowing proper drying time between coats.
After applying the final coats of finish and allowing proper drying time, assemble the IVAR carcass following the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach plywood panels to the cabinet sides to form height extenders that will house the drawer. These extenders create the internal rails for the drawer slides and visually unify the unit into a single custom cabinet. For the top, either repurpose an existing tabletop or fabricate one from plywood and add a routed decorative edge. Secure the top to the extenders to lock the assembly together.
When constructing the drawer box, use 18mm plywood for the sides and 12mm plywood for the base to ensure rigidity and longevity. Mount the drawer slides to the extenders at the recommended heights and verify smooth operation before proceeding. Adjust slide alignment if there is binding or uneven travel. Test the drawer several times under load to confirm reliable movement.
Fitting the drawer front and trimming
Position the drawer front centered on the box and maintain consistent reveal on all sides. Use spacers or shims to hold the front in place while checking alignment. Clamp the front gently and mark attachment points through the drawer box from the inside. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent splitting and fasten the front with appropriate screws or confirm face-frame mounting hardware.
If the drawer front requires trimming, remove it and cut cautiously, following the marked lines. A router with a straight bit or a fine-toothed saw produces the cleanest edge. After trimming, sand the edge with progressively finer grits and re-check the fit. Reinstall the front and verify even gaps and unobstructed slide operation.
Apply any touch-up finish to trimmed edges and allow adequate drying time. Perform a final operational test with the cabinet assembled and a typical drawer load in place.
Perform a final operational test with the cabinet assembled and a typical drawer load in place. To maintain a unified aesthetic, repurpose an extra IVAR door as the drawer front or cut a matching panel from plywood. Extend the drawer front slightly to conceal the seam between the original cabinet face and any added extenders. Inside the cabinet, fasten narrow trim strips to cover gaps, screw holes and transitions; placed along the sides, these strips also read as a simple crown molding treatment.
Hinge decisions, finishing and installation
When a crown piece overlaps the top edge of the doors, plan to shave approximately 1 cm from the door tops so hinge plates and reveal gaps align. Select hinges that allow micro-adjustment on three axes to simplify final alignment after any trimming. Use hinges rated for the door weight and the type of overlay created by the extended fronts.
Before final finishing, mask or remove hardware to avoid finish buildup. Sand filler and trim areas smooth, then apply the same finish used on the carcass to the new fronts and trim pieces. Allow full drying between coats and test door and drawer operation between applications to detect any binding caused by added thicknesses.
For installation, set doors and drawers in place and perform incremental adjustments. Check reveals at multiple points to ensure consistent spacing. Finally, confirm smooth drawer action under typical load conditions and re-tighten fasteners after a short period of use to compensate for settling.
Choosing the right hinges is critical when the cabinet is meant to hide a television. For wider opening you will likely need 170-degree hinges and small corner fillers so doors sit clear of the drawer front at full open. You may need to trim the extenders slightly to accommodate these hinge geometries. Once fitment is complete, apply a thorough primer and paint to protect the wood and unify different materials. Wall-mount the finished unit using proper anchors and verify it is level and secure before placing electronics or heavy items inside.
Variations and scaling
For larger cabinets, use heavier-duty hinges rated for increased weight and frequency of use. Consider continuous piano hinges for extra-long doors to reduce stress on individual fittings. If the cabinet will house additional equipment, plan ventilation clearances and service access panels to prevent overheating. When scaling down for compact spaces, retain the 170-degree opening where possible to preserve viewing angles and access. Always recheck clearances after any dimensional change and test full motion under expected load before final installation.
Final assembly and configuration options
After rechecking clearances and testing motion under load, decide on the scale that matches your space and experience. A single cabinet with one drawer suits first-time builders. A deeper IVAR or a triple-bank formation gives greater capacity and a dedicated center bay for a television, with flanking units reserved for storage. The same basic workflow—extending the sides, fitting drawer slides, trimming exposed edges and applying finish—remains applicable across configurations.
Consider alternatives that save time or improve function. Purchasing a factory-made IVAR drawer eliminates a construction step. Selecting slatted doors improves airflow for media electronics and reduces internal heat buildup. The assembly’s modular use of plywood and IVAR components makes future adjustments straightforward: disassemble units, alter dimensions to suit new equipment or room changes, and refinish surfaces as needed. If precise measurements are required for a particular opening, provide the cavity dimensions and equipment sizes for tailored guidance.