Argomenti trattati
When a small kitchen needs better functionality but not a full overhaul, reusing what you already have can be the smartest route. One homeowner chose to keep her IKEA units and redesign their layout rather than start from scratch. By converting two standard base cabinets into a single wider unit she preserved the look she liked and dramatically increased usable counter space. She also kept the project economical: aside from a new countertop (which she notes would have been installed regardless), the only purchases specific to the cabinet modification were inexpensive screws and shims.
This approach is fully compatible with discontinued lines such as the VÄRDE series and modern equivalents like SEKTION with MAXIMERA drawers, using legs you choose. The plan centers on removing one side panel and reusing the hardware and pegs so that shelves can remain adjustable if you want. With careful measuring, a few hand tools and some patience, the project transforms two 20 ½” base cabinets that once flanked a stove into one continuous base cabinet that supports a single countertop and improves workflow.
Why combine two cabinets?
In compact kitchens every inch of surface counts, and combining drawers and shelves into a single footprint often results in more practical work area. Beyond the immediate gain in worktop area, this method reduces waste, saves money compared with a full replacement, and lets you keep a familiar finish and drawer system. The idea is especially useful when existing cabinets are in good condition but the configuration is awkward—examples include two narrow cabinets around a range or appliances that leave a small strip of unusable counter. By turning two units into one you get continuity for the new countertop, simpler installation, and a cleaner visual line in the kitchen.
Step-by-step: how to turn two cabinets into one
At a high level you will: assemble one cabinet fully, partially assemble or strip the second, remove a single side panel, and then reattach that panel to the first cabinet so both units function as a single structure. Key materials include the original cabinet parts, spare pegs, cam locks and their screws, shims for alignment, and a handful of long screws to join the panels. Essential tools are a drill, screw gun, utility knife, saw, clamps and a tape measure. Keep in mind that a careful test-fit before tightening hardware prevents misalignment and protects shelf integrity.
Prep and disassembly
Start by fully building one cabinet following the manufacturer instructions; the second should be assembled except for one side panel or you can remove the panel from a completed unit. When detaching a panel save any dowels or pegs you pull out because you will reuse them. Lay cabinets on their sides while working to reduce stress on shelves. To detach legs from a panel, score the joint with a utility knife and then saw carefully so you don’t damage the veneer or the melamine panel. Label the panel face and top edge so reassembly is foolproof. If you want the shelves to remain flexible, mark and drill holes for the cam locks at the correct depths.
Reassembly and finishing
Attach the free side panel to the fully assembled cabinet using stacked shims to set alignment—Amy used four stacks positioned near the top and bottom. Use long screws (about 2 ¼” in her case) that pass through the shim stack and into the receiving panel without poking through the outer surface. Clamp the assembly, pre-drill pilot holes, and drive screws two per shim stack for strength. Notch the back of the rear leg if necessary to clear the overhang of the melamine backing on the second cabinet. Once the left side is secure, stand the joined cabinet upright, align the second cabinet’s shelves and crossbars, insert the saved pegs, and tighten the cam locks. Finish the back with small brads or tacks to hold the melamine panel flush.
Practical tips and costs
Budget-wise the conversion can be extremely affordable. In the example here the only out-of-pocket items bought specifically for joining were shims and screws—roughly ten dollars. The new countertop was a separate expense that the homeowner considered necessary regardless of cabinet configuration. Keep spare legs, caps and trim pieces from the old cabinets for hiding foot extenders or creating a continuous toe-kick. If the final height is slightly short, add a thin sheet of plywood to the top and face it with a trim strip cut from the drawer-front stock before installing the countertop. Working slowly, measuring twice and test-fitting components will yield a sturdy, attractive result without a costly cabinet replacement.